How long sup leash

The string is the connection between the board and the leash. Surf SUPs will typically have one leash attachment point at the tail, but longer, race boards frequently come with a leash attachment point in front of the deck pad allowing a shorter leash to be used and reducing the chance of it dragging in the water.

Leashes will have a hard life! Doing this can develop kinks in them and the urethane can easily be damaged. Therefore urethane leashes should, when not in use, be removed and kept out of the sun. Your leash is the most important bit of safety equipment you have, so check it regularly for any signs of wear and look after it.

But nothing is that simple, using the wrong leash can be more dangerous than not wearing one at all. In the sea, SUP surfing, a leash is a necessity not an accessory. And the vast majority of SUP surfers will wear a leash without hesitation. But using one is not the end of the SUP surfers responsibility. A big board at the end of a long leash could do a lot of damage in a crowed line up. And in the surf, a SUP board of any size on the end of a coiled leash is asking for trouble too!

Always consider the safety of others in the water, as well as your own safety. However a big flat river can have a strong current and be moving a huge volume of water, just like in a WW river. UK rivers are often not clear water, carrying silt which means that obstacles under the water e.

Leashes can easily be caught around these objects as well as pontoons, jetties, buoys etc…. So sometimes undoing a leash would be a good idea whilst paddling, for example when getting on or off a board at a pontoon with a strong current. Understand weather conditions, know what is expected and plan accordingly. If you notice a breeze at the beginning of your paddle, change your direction to paddle against the breeze, so that when you tire out, the trip back to your starting point is not a struggle.

If wind kicks up while you are out, make note of where the wind is coming from and get back to your starting point, even if you have to paddle against the wind while on your knees or prone. Keep your leash on, even if you loose your paddle. Place the blade of your paddle under your chest with the front face of the paddle facing your body. The long handle of the paddle will now extend out beyond and above the nose of your board, like a bow on a boat.

Line it up with the nose of your board so it is pointing straight ahead. The weight of your body will hold the paddle in place. In this position, you will be able to paddle with your hands as if on a surfboard. You will make a lot of progress moving toward shore by decreasing the wind resistance that was created by your upright body. Being closer to the surface of your board will also greatly reduce the tipping and rocking of your board on suddenly rolling waters.

Never leave your board. If you fall off, get back on it. Never unleash yourself to swim in without your board. On your knees or flat on your board are the best positions for an exhausted paddler to get into, in order to get out of trouble.

I use a 10' coiled leash. They're cheap and strong. I'm not paddling in extreme conditions but I never go without one. I don't think adjustability is a feature I'd use so I certainly wouldn't pay more for it. I don't even know my leash is there because I'm used to these. Probably not a detail we need to over-think but with all the options it can be easy to do so. Unless you're doing heavy downwinders where there is consistent risk of getting separated from your board.

My typical usage is for last-resort safety. I can't remember a time when I actually fell in a way where the leash came into play.

I like Dakine. They use good quality velcro. Thanks Badger! I need some ft days to practice riding over white wash. Whatever it takes to get out there I suppose I may not be understanding you correctly and this may hijack the thread but it sounds like you're ditching your board when you hit whitewater and then reeling it back in. This is unavoidable at times, but three things to be aware of if you do it regularly: 1 You could be endangering others around you.

They all fail at some point. The more time they spend fully extended the sooner it happens. Every second counts between waves. If you can keep your board close by and under control and not have to pull it back in, you'll take fewer waves to the head.

Way to go looking for days to practice in ft. Before you know it you'll be getting up and over even bigger stuff with surprisingly little effort. Probably quite a few threads here on getting out through whitewater where there are all kinds of techniques discussed.

Really glad you got rid of the 12footer though and even cooler for a guy on the beach to loan you one--that's why I carry about 3 with me.

Stay stoked! Thanks Bulky! I make sure nobody is around me when I'm diving under. When the crowd comes in, I paddle away from the line up. I've been able to get over small white wash but anything over 3ft I've yet to conquer. As long as I can reach. Lately, there's been a ton of seaweed on my leash which slows me down. Almost November, not sure how many ft days are ahead of me. However, given the large size of car keys these days, this feature has become far less useful. The cord is the most critical component of any leash.

The majority of modern leash cords are made from polyurethane engineered to stretch under pressure without breaking. Generally speaking, a thicker cord is more heavy duty will be sturdier and less likely to break under extreme stress. The tradeoff is that thicker cords produce more drag in the water, which can slow you down. The rail saver is the portion of the leash that attaches to your leash string.